Waypoint Wanderings: 2013

We left the dock at Port Severn at 0850 - just in time to be at the blue line to enter Lock 45. It is the final - and smallest - lock on the Trent-Severn Waterway. We were there with 2 other boats that were much larger than Waypoint. Since the lock is so small, the lock tender took us and the smaller of the other 2 whose beams started at 16 ft. We were staggered so that the person on the stern of the other boat had to hold our bow off for the short ride down in the lock - 9 feet. We had a nice conversation during the ride. They were a family on vacation for 2 weeks - farmers who for the first time in years could leave their livestock in the care of others to head for a long-anticipated vacation in northern Georgian Bay.

As we departed the lock, the warnings of friends and acquaintances came to mind as we entered the turbulent, narrow channel that would lead us into Georgian Bay. It is wide enough for one boat at a time. Bob did a great job getting us through with no problems, but we did see a steel piling on the edge of the channel and just under the surface of the water. Just the previous week, a boater had incurred significant damage to his boat when he wandered too close to the edge of the channel.

We followed the narrow Potato Channel to the main part of the bay. It was rocky and narrow but very picturesque (1).

1. Potato Channel - east-leaning trees from westerly prevailing wind

We entered the wide Midland Harbor (5) where we would stay for the next few days. It is a beautiful harbor where sailboats seem to dominate the landscape. The channel into the city dock is well-marked with good bouyage and a huge mural on the grain elevator at the head of the harbor. There are more than 30 detailed murals throughout the small town. They were painted by Fred Lenz and depict historic events or themes representative of the area (2).

2. Largest historical mural in No. America

2. King St. mural by Fred Lenz

5. Midland Harbor

5. At the dock in Midland Harbor

We were happy to re-connect with our friends who live in the area. As always, they were very gracious, providing tours of their favorite spots and taking time from working on their boat to meet us for breakfast. My favorite spot was Uncle Roy's - the Chinese/Canadian restaurant that served a great breakfast! (3) Our friends even acknowledged the 4th of July which we celebrated in a low-key fashion - dug out our old Coronado, CA teeshirts and toasted the day. (4)

3. Egg fu yung or just eggs?

4. Happy 4th

4. No teeshirt, still cool...

5. Midland Harbor sunset

Reprovisioned in Midland, did laundry and then headed out on Monday for Beausoleil Island, a federal park. It was a beautiful cruise and was well-marked until we got inside Beausoleil Bay. Once inside, we had to rely on our electronic charts to keep the rocks at bay; but we did so and ended our trip in a beautiful little bay - Ojibway (6) - where there were a few docks and plenty of deep water. We would live off the grid here - solar panels and batteries. We augmented with the generator - gotta have our coffee and tea in the morning.... We were alone for the first few hours but were joined later by 2 other boats. No worry - there was plenty of room. We spent the days chatting with our "neighbors" - lots of local knowledge - and reading, swimming and hiking. OK, if you know me, you know I don't swim. I floated in my life jacket....

6. Ojibway Bay

Our hike was along the Massasauga Trail (7). The trail is named for a protected rattlesnake indigenous to the area. We didn't meet any, happy to say. We walked to Chimney Bay and Fairy Lake. The trail was well-marked, cool and bug-free since we had remembered the Off. The mosquitoes and black flies can be treacherous without protection. We found lots of wild blueberries (8) along the trail - ripe and delicious. Reminded me of the wild blueberries that Bob's sister and I picked years ago accompanied by our niece Penny when she was a toddler. We made delicious jam with them - at least the ones we didn't eat while picking.

Anyway, it was a great hike and our guide, Sophie, loved it. We regret sometimes that there is not enough activity - or grass - for her, so we hike whenever we can.

7. On the trail

We had a lovely 3 days at Ojibway - some rain and heat early, but the last 2 days were perfect - sunny, cool days and nights. We headed out on Thursday and docked in Honey Harbour at South Bay Cove Marina (8). It has great facilities, and the manager loaned us his truck so that we could get groceries in town. It is a beautiful spot, but we are looking forward to the quiet of Frying Pan Bay where we're headed on Monday. We'll keep you posted!

6. Trash pick-up on Ojibway - every day!

6. Ojibway sunset

7. On the trail

7. Blueberries - leave some for the bears!

7. Looking back at the boat from the trail

7. Fairy Lake

7. Chimney Bay anchorage

7. We claim Fairy Lake for ... us!

7. The perfect Massasauga - in stone!

8. South Bay Cove, Honey Harbour

Trent U on the shores of the Waterway

We had a beautiful cruise across Lake Katchewanooka, one of the several Kawartha Lakes. The shores became increasingly rocky, and we started to see more of the cottages that draw the Canadians from their cities and towns. We completed 8 locks and settled in on the lock wall at Youngs Point with our new friends, Judy and Fred. They were a wealth of knowledge about places to visit along our route. The spot at Youngs Point was very restful but did have a very busy general store and, of course, ice cream shop that we couldn't resist. We decided to stay overnight here in lieu of our planned stop at an area marina. We had to use our generator for cooking, but it was worth the effort and convinced us to stay at other lock walls even if they didn't supply "hydro."

Overnight at the Youngs Point Lock wall

We headed out from Youngs Point ahead of our friends. We would meet them again that evening in their home marina of Buckhorn Yacht Haven. Our trip across Clear Lake and Stony Lake, while beautiful, was potentially treacherous as many areas are narrow and strewn with rocks just below the surface. We found, though, that if we followed the charts - paper and 2 electronic - we were fine. The rock names were a little disconcerting and displayed a dark side that Canadians generally don't show: The Spoiler on Clear Lake, Hells Gate, Snake Channel, Point-of-no-return, etc. Again, they were all well-marked but certainly got our attention. We started making up our own: Hope your boat's paid for rock, Reach over and grab your ankles and kiss you boat goodbye rock, etc.

Port Severn sunset - 'til next time!

We made it to Buckhorn in good time and tucked into a covered slip. It was a nice marina with all the amenities. Our neighbors had a small party - margaritas and a bonfire. The next morning the dock was strewn with the leftovers courtesy of the local raccoons who left their footprints on our boat. We - and our ever alert watchdog Sophie - slept through it all!

Canada wildflowers

Happy Canada Day!

We headed out for Bobcaygeon the next morning. Again, another beautiful ride; however, we started seeing the houseboats that are so popular on the lakes. Many are privately owned but others are rentals where the renter gets a 15 minute lesson on how to handle the boat and the "rules of the road." Some are as long as 50 feet and are powered only by a single outboard, so despite the renter's best intentions, they often function in the locks like a pinball. The lock tenders are aware of this, so they allow the private boat owners to enter and leave the locks first. Despite the potential hazards, they look like fun. You often see several families on a boat or several boats traveling together for a week long vaca.

Making friends with Bennie in Port Severn

So many flavors, so many calories....

Island house!

Just a few bikes...

Locktail time!

We arrived in Bobcaygeon to stay at Gordon Marina. We found some of the nicest people there too. Everyone seems interested in making our stay in Canada enjoyable with tips on where to go and what to see. Bobcaygeon is a very happening spot on the weekend, and this weekend was no exception. There was a huge bikefest with thousands of bikes, vendors, bands, etc. The main streets were closed off, so it was easy to stroll through the area. We were able to shop here for groceries and refresh the ship's first aid kit at the local LCBO(Liquor Control Board of Ontario - one of the first Canadian words we learned - like the Red Dot store in South Carolina but more expensive.). What we always remember when shopping is that whatever we buy, we have to carry back to the boat - certainly cuts down on unnecessary items. We also found the Kawartha Dairy Factory Store where you can choose from over 50 flavors of their delicious ice cream.

Chillin' at Rosedale

6. View from the top (See our bow)

We left the hustle and bustle of Bobcaygeon, crossed Sturgeon Lake (There aren't now, nor ever were any sturgeon in this lake.) and made it to Rosedale Lock which had everything that Bobcaygeon lacked - peace, quiet and no electricity. It would be a stay using the generator, but it was well worth it. Many of the locks are well-cared for with picnic tables, barbecues, trees, tended lawns and clean restrooms. We thoroughly enjoyed Rosedale as did Sophie who had a little more freedom here.

Big Chute control room

8. and out!

7. Down...

From Rosedale we headed out across Balsom Lake at 840 feet above sea level. We started in Brewerton NY which is 407 feet above sea level. To this point we have been lifted in all of the locks. After Balsam Lake, we start dropping in the locks. In fact, when we return to the Trent-Severn after Balsam Lake we will go through locks that will drop us a total of 120 feet in 12 miles. One of those, the Kirkfield Lift Lock similar to Peterborough but not quite as high, will drop us 49 feet. Once out of Kirkfield, we crossed Canal Lake, a man-made lake with lots of grassy overgrowth. We headed for 4 more locks in quick succession to stop for the night at Torah Lock - another pretty spot. We were hoping for good weather the next day so that we could make it safely across Lakes Simcoe and Couchiching. They are both shallow, so any kind of wind or weather can make for rough crossings. We were fortunate to have one of the most beautiful days we have seen in Canada, so the ride was very pleasant. The water has become much clearer - much easier to see the rocks beyond the channel ;-))

5. Getting picked-up by the straps

We left Couchiching earlt to make it to the Couchiching Lock for their 0900 opening. We came to a railroad bridge 1st with 14' clearance. We honked for the tender, but he never responded. We put down our tallest antenna and I stood on the bow to check for clearance. It was clear that the GPS antenna would have to go also; so Bob backed up, I put the antenna down, and we made it with 6" to spare.

Boat exiting Swift Rapids Lock

4. Our turn - entering the railway

The next lock was Swift Rapids - the largest of all the hydraulic locks with a drop of 47'. It was a very smooth ride and one where the lock tenders make sure your lines are in place correctly because once the decent starts, it cannot be stopped.

3. and gets launched on the other side!

From Swift Rapids it was on to the Big Chute Lock - the true e-ticket ride. Before we reached it though, we were dazzled by the picturesque waterway that we covered. The "cottages" and boat houses and the pristine shoreline were wonderful to see.

2. Travels 600 feet over land...

We made it to Big Chute with great anticipation and with the hopes of seeing someone lock through, so we could see the process before we went through the next day. We were fortunate to see a boat that we had traveled with in the past go through shortly after we arrived. We also were lucky to get a tour of the lock control room by the lock master. He was very gracious, explained the process, answered our questions and allowed us to take pictures of the equipment. The lock tenders are proud of their work even thought they are somewhat frustrated by the lack of funds for repairs and the cutbacks in man-hours.
We had an exciting and uneventful ride over the railway the next morning as we headed toward Port Severn where we planned to spend the long holiday weekend (Canada Day 7/1). From here we will head into Georgian Bay where we hope to anchor out among the beautiful 30,000 islands that Canada boasts. We'll keep you posted!